• 4/27/12 at 9:30 AM

Anna Wintour isn’t the only fashion person to serve as muse for today’s musicians. After casting South African rap-rave group Die Antwoord in his spring campaign for T, Alexander Wang became fast friends with the trio — that’s lead vocalists Ninja and Yo-Landi Vi$$er, with tracks by D.J. Hi-Tek. From Elle‘s May issue:

“He’s like a wispy little punk,” says Ninja, recalling a debauched night on the town with Wang in December. (“We were like, Whoa, this is VIP shit!”) In fact, the duo was so taken with the experience that they name-checked Wang twice on their second album, Ten$ion, released in February. “We had to make a song right after [that night] because we wanted to quickly give him a shout-out,” says Ninja, who raps in “Hey Sexy”: “I know how to get da dough, I know how to spend da dough/ Rockin’ Alexander Wang from head to toe.” Adds Yo-Landi, several verses later: “I like partying, partying, partying, damn! Ask my man Alexander Wang.”

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His own dream career was kick-started by Dawn Mello, the then fashion director of NY store Bergdorf Goodman who went on to hire Tom Ford at Gucci, so the possessor of what you might call a good eye for talent. Back in
1980, Mello was walking past Lothar’s, a store on 57th Street in Manhattan, where Kors was designer and window dresser. At that moment, Kors was putting together a window display and she knocked on the glass to ask him who had designed the clothes. When Kors told her, she replied, “When you have your own collection, call me.”

“I literally ran home to start a collection,” he says. The following year, his line duly appeared in Bergdorf Goodman and the other top American department stores. He rapidly earned the reputation of being the most extravagant designer in New York and his shows dripped with exotic skins, ten-ply cashmere and fur - clothes to be worn after a hard day’s skiing in Aspen or on your private jet. In 1997, he joined French fashion house Céline and two years later became the label’s first ever creative director - a job he held until 2003, when he left to concentrate on his own brand. This turned out to be a good move, as this was also the year he was named menswear designer of the year by the Council Of Fashion Designers Of America.

Since then, Kors, now 53, has been a judge in all ten series of American reality-TV show Project Runway, which moved him from “fashion fame” (which Kors describes as getting great tables in restaurants but little attention from the paparazzi) to genuine American celebrity status. And Kors loves making a dramatic entrance, a trait he says he inherited from his grandmother, Bea Hamburger. As Kors once said: “She liked everything printed, patterned, colourful, embellished; there couldn’t be enough. Five days in Florida meant six wig boxes and four furs.”

But, more importantly, his company, Michael Kors, was taken public in 2011, in what has been described as the most successful fashion initial public offering in history, valuing the brand at nearly £2.3bn. It has also so far netted the man himself more than £125m, and Forbes magazine has predicted that he will soon appear on its billionaires list. No doubt he will then be spending plenty of time on the slopes at Aspen and in his private jet. All very Michael Kors, in fact.

“The Michael Kors man travels the world,” says Kors. “I think he’s pragmatic but indulgent at the same time, so although he loves luxury and loves beautiful fabrics and textiles, he wants to be able to take the luxury and turn it into an everyday thing. I think there’s this Yin-and-Yang balance to [him]. He wants to look modern, but at the same time be timeless. The last thing he’s interested in is looking like he’s spent too much time achieving a look. My job is to put it together in a way that someone would say, ‘He looks amazing. I love the idea that he’s wearing rugged boots with a tailored suit [with] an anorak over it.’”

Indeed, Kors has a very practical approach to luxury. “When I first started in fashion, luxury was a very precious thing,” he says. “It was for special occasions – or for rock stars. Today it has to be something that you can use all the time. I always say that the best cashmere pullover starts off as something worn under a tailored jacket. Next, I’m also wearing it on the weekend with a pair of jeans and an anorak and, who knows, five years down the road it’s what I want to sleep in at the beach on a cold night. It has to turn into something that I think is useful, that has an everyday use, it’s not something that you put on a pedestal.”

And to those men who feel that Kors’ line in luxury is only for midwinter, he has a response – and, to be fair, his view is echoed on many modern menswear catwalks. ”The idea of men having clothes that are so specific to the season has changed,” he says. “You can wear boots in the summer and you can wear a T-shirt under a shearling coat. Quite frankly, if you live in the UK, it would be the way you’d want to dress, as in my experience the British have to peel like an onion according to the weather. I know men used to have rules, but these are disappearing.”

Kors also has no truck with men who think there are hard-and-fast rules about dressing age-appropriately. “It might be more interesting to see a man in his twenties looking more polished and the man in his fifties looking more casual, but there are no absolutes any more.”

But he will admit that there are still some boundaries that men shouldn’t really cross. “In the early Nineties,” he says, “we dipped our toe into the underwear market. At the time I was always ticked off that whenever I tucked my shirt into my trousers, the only way I could keep my shirt looking smart was to tuck it into my underwear. So, I had what I thought at the time was the brilliant idea of attaching a pair of Y-fronts to a man’s dress shirt. And we actually produced them, shipped them to the stores and I, in fact, personally wore one – once. And as soon as I wore it I said, ‘This is a disaster.’

“I was going against the very nature of the male anatomy. After all, if men’s bodyshirts were such a good idea, they would probably have been done before and every man would have been wearing them.”

michaelkors.com

Originally published in the October 2012 issue of British GQ. 

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….JOHANNESBURG (AP) — Struggling but deserving designers got a chance to show work inspired by the creativity and history of South Africa’s most famous township as Soweto’s first fashion week opened Thursday.

The township on Johannesburg’s southwestern edge was the natural place for a show for new designers, said 23-year-old entrepreneur and Soweto Fashion Week organizer Stephen Manzini.

“You walk around Soweto, you see creativity everywhere,” Manzini said.

Manzini didn’t ask designers to show extensive collections or charge them to take part, unlike the country’s more established fashion weeks. Fashion blogger Mahlatse James says this gives designers who have not yet made a name a chance to show their work to boutique owners and potential investors.

“Creatives from Soweto do need their own platform,” James said. “If the other fashion platforms cannot afford them that, they have to create their own.”

Manzini acknowledges Soweto Fashion Week is an ambitious title for his three-day showcase of 16 designers. Rehearsals were held in the parking lot and garden of a modest apartment borrowed from a tailor friend, in a northern Johannesburg neighborhood some designers found difficult to reach by taxi van, the main form of cheap mass transportation in South Africa.

“We refused to be stopped because we don’t have funding,” said Manzini, who raised 60,000 rand (about $7,500) from churches, business people and other sponsors for the event. His mother, a nurse, tapped her contacts and acted as chairwoman of the event, and is someone off whom he could bounce ideas, Manzini said.

Manzini is confident that in coming years, the event will grow to a full week and give many more designers an opportunity. He hopes to start his own business distributing designs from Soweto Fashion Week.

Valencia Mache, a 31-year-old legal adviser from Soweto who came to the first night Thursday, had this advice for the young designers: “Even if there’s no opportunity, make an opportunity.”

Her friend, 30-year-old businesswoman Jabu Mlangeni, said she last went to a fashion show years ago, far from Soweto in the upscale Johannesburg neighborhood of Sandton. Then, she said, she was cheering on David Tlale, one of South Africa’s best-known black designers. Thursday, she was just around the corner from her home, and said she was hoping to see the next Tlale.

Soweto has long been known for its quirky sense of style, with designers splashing bright colors and urban sensibilities on everything from the latest silhouettes on European runways to reworkings of the dapper suits Nelson Mandela wore when he lived in the township in the 1940s. The older Mandela is best known for his relaxed but colorful shirts. But as a younger man, the son of a royal family was a political celebrity in Soweto, and dressed the part.

“The style that Nelson Mandela rocked in his day,” and other looks from the 1940s and 1950s are popular among Soweto designers, said fashion writer James, who himself sports a shaved part in his hair, like Mandela had as a young man.

James, dressed on the day he was interviewed in a purple tartan bow tie and eye-popping blue shoes, also favors the bright colors and nerdy yet cool skinny silhouettes popularized by the Smarteez, a design collective from Soweto that has drawn international attention.

The designers in Manzini’s shows aren’t as recognizable as Smarteez. But the strikingly modern Soweto Hotel, one of Manzini’s sponsors, gave them a classy stage with an evocative history. The hotel where the shows will be staged sits on the square where, in 1955, South Africans of all races gathered to adopt the Freedom Charter, which proclaims: “South Africa belongs to all who live in it, black and white.” Freedom Square is now a national monument.

For 29-year-old designer Tebogo Lehlabi, Soweto is “liberation. It’s freedom.”

Lehlabi has never before participated in a fashion week. She said she had not been confident enough in the past to seek such a showcase, but now hopes that boutique owners will see her designs in Soweto and seek her out.

“It’s a great opportunity. It’s a long time coming. There’s a lot of talent that’s going on in the townships,” said Lehlabi, who comes from another Johannesburg township, Alexandra.

“Soweto is coming along, it’s coming into its own” along with the rest of South Africa, Lehlabi said. “We’re an emerging identity. So, anything goes. It’s a young and fresh identity.”

She expresses her own identity in recycled materials and bits and pieces she finds at supermarkets and hardware stores. She dyes her clothing to washed out blues and grays that she says suggest Johannesburg’s smog and “that bleached look that you sometimes get just before it rains.”

Her collection for the Soweto Fashion Show includes sleeveless blouses made from cloth her local supermarkets sells for rags. It’s a soft cotton that dyes beautifully, Lehlabi said.

She takes the brightly checked vinyl bags impoverished travelers load onto buses and trains across Africa, and cuts them into pieces to use as decorative trim. Other embellishments are hand-woven from hardware store rope.

“I’m inspired by the working class. Because I am working class,” she said.

Each piece is painstakingly handmade.

But “it’s very street. It’s street couture,” said Lehlabi, who showed her collection Thursday.

Lehlabi turns subtlety and thrift into elegance. Collen Monnakgotla, 32, another designer, represents the other extreme of township ingenuity. He dresses men in bright blocks of color, and his fabrics range from denim to Lycra.

Monnakgotla said he brings “something ghetto, something funky” to Soweto Fashion Week.

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Robert Vill promoted to Senior Vice President, Finance and Treasurer

New York, NY, March 13, 2012: Liz Claiborne Inc. (NYSE:LIZ – News) today announced the appointment of George Carrara Executive Vice President, Chief Financial Officer and Chief Operating Officer, effective April 2, 2012. In this position, Mr. Carrara will oversee Finance, Global Operations and Information Technology. He will report to William L. McComb, Chief Executive Officer, Liz Claiborne Inc.

Commenting on the announcement, Mr. McComb said: “George has tremendous experience leading Finance and Operations in a multi-channel apparel company. His industry experience, coupled with his value system and his reputation for delivering results make him an excellent fit for our company. As we tackle our systems and operating costs, it makes sense for George to take the position of Chief Operating Officer as well. He has had that combined experience before and has excelled.”

Mr. Carrara said: “I have been following the Company`s progress, and I am thrilled at the opportunity to help guide Liz Claiborne Inc. into the growth phase of its transformation. I am eager to work with the team that is in place and take this company forward to future success.”

Most recently, Mr. Carrara was Chief Operating Officer at Tommy Hilfiger North America. He started at Tommy Hilfiger in 1999 as Vice President, Chief Financial Officer for the Jeans division and held positions of increasing responsibility until the sale of the company to PVH in 2011. Prior to his stint at Tommy Hilfiger, Mr. Carrara was Chief Financial/Operating Officer for Mirage Apparel Group, a licensee of Guess, the NFL and MLB. He began his career in the Entrepreneurial Services & Consumer Product Groups at Price Waterhouse and is a Certified Public Accountant.

The Company also announced the promotion of Robert Vill to Senior Vice President, Finance and Treasurer, effective April 2, 2012. Mr. Vill will serve as Interim Chief Financial Officer starting March 16, 2012. Upon Mr. Carrara`s start at Liz Claiborne Inc., Mr. Vill will report to him and continue to serve as Corporate Treasurer and head Investor Relations.

Mr. Vill joined the company as Vice President, Treasury and Investor Relations in April 1999 and has held various financial positions since. From 2005 through 2007, he also had responsibility for divisional finance. In 1998, immediately prior to joining the Company, Mr. Vill was Vice President, Finance for Hanover Direct. Prior to that, he held numerous positions during his seven year tenure at Saks Fifth Avenue, ultimately serving as Vice President-Treasurer.

About Liz Claiborne Inc.
Liz Claiborne Inc. designs and markets a portfolio of retail-based, premium, global lifestyle brands including Juicy Couture, kate spade, and Lucky Brand. In addition, the Adelington Design Group, a private brand jewelry design and development division will continue to market brands through department stores as well as serve jcpenney via an exclusive supplier agreements for Liz Claiborne and Monet jewelry lines and Kohl`s with an exclusive supplier agreement for Dana Buchman jewelry. The Company also has licenses for the Liz Claiborne New York brand, available at QVC and Lizwear, which is distributed through the Club Store channel. Liz Claiborne Inc. maintains an 18.75% stake in Mexx, a European and Canadian apparel and accessories retail-based brand. The Company anticipates that its name change to Fifth & Pacific Companies, Inc. and trading under its new stock symbol (NYSE: FNP) will become effective on or about May 15, 2012. Additional information and updates will also be posted on the new corporate website: www.fifthandpacific.com.

Source: Liz Claiborne, Inc. via Thomson Reuters ONE

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DHAKA, Oct 10, 2011 (AFP) – Suman Howlader was thrilled to land a job in a Bangladeshi factory sandblasting new jeans to make them look old, but he now believes the diktats of fashion have exacted a heavy toll on his health.

 

 

Sandblasting give new jeans the “worn” look (AFP/File, Munir Uz Zaman)

 

After working for three years, he started vomiting blood, coughing badly and struggling to breathe before being admitted to a specialist respiratory hospital in Dhaka.

Workers’ groups say Howlader and many others like him have been misdiagnosed as suffering from tuberculosis because of ignorance about silicosis — an incurable disease caused by inhalation of silica particles.

The minute, fast-moving particles are released during sandblasting, a process used to give new jeans the “worn” look that has been popular for many years around the world.

Sandblasting has long been banned in Europe and the United States, but Bangladesh’s cheap-labour garment factories still use it to condition jeans for top western brands.

Gucci, Levi’s, H&M and Gap have all vowed to stop selling sandblasted products, while Dolce & Gabbana has been targeted in an Internet campaign to take a similar stance.

“One day, when I was working, blood started gushing out of my mouth and nose,” Howlader told AFP from his hospital bed.

“They told me the work was safe. But the constant sandblasting made the room fill up with dust and sand. You end up swallowing and inhaling a lot of it.”

Howlader fired high-pressure sand at denim jeans with just a cloth mask for protection, treating 200-300 pairs in a ten-hour day.

– Deadly denim –

“Sandblasting is booming here,” said Kalpana Akhter, general secretary of the Bangladesh Center for Workers Solidarity, which records many silicosis-like symptoms among workers in the sector.

“Doctors are not looking out for silicosis, so cases get diagnosed as tuberculosis instead,” she said.

As most Bangladeshi companies have no health insurance, many of those who become sick simply quit their jobs and return to their villages in dreadful health, she added.

Tens of thousands of Bangladeshi workers are involved and at least 500 factories use sandblasting, said Khorshed Alam, who runs a labour rights group.

“Workers hardly have any protective gear to prevent (silica) dust from entering their system,” he said.

According to Alam, many large factories are aware of the health risks of sandblasting and to avoid potential liability they often subcontract out the work to small, standalone factories.

“We used home-made compressors and sand-guns, which are 20 times cheaper than the ones used by big jeans plants,” Delwar Hossain, supervisor at the small Meridian unit in Dhaka, told AFP.

– “I swallow so much sand” –

Because of the high pay — 7,500 taka ($100) a month or double the minimum wage — they have no shortage of workers like Mohammad Ilias.

With only a thin cloth wrapped around his face, the 21-year-old from a village in the country’s remote north was blasting sand with a homemade pressure-gun onto a pair of new jeans.

“In some factories, they use masks and other gear to keep sand off. But here we use cloth… there is no escape from sand. But we’ve got used to it,” he said.

“I swallow so much sand doing this work but enough water and a banana a day sort out the health problems. I don’t mind inhaling sand as long as the wages are good,” he said.

The labour rights group Clean Clothes Campaign has run a successful campaign to shame famous brand names into using other, safer, techniques but in Bangladesh it remains profitable and therefore common.

Gap told AFP that it halted all sandblasting at its Bangladeshi suppliers in August following a review last year, though for many local factory owners there is an acceptance that the needs of fashion overrule health concerns.

“We are still a LDC (‘least developed country’), please don’t think that we are Switzerland,” said Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, head of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer and Exporters Association, explaining that a national ban was unlikely.

Such attitudes mean a full-scale tragedy among Bangladeshi sandblasters may be going undetected, believes Ineke Zeldenrust, a spokeswoman for the Clean Clothes Campaign.

“We worry that we will see a similar scenario in Bangladesh as in Turkey,” she said, where dozens of workers — some teenagers — developed acute silicosis and died, prompting public outcry before a ban was enacted in 2009.

But workers such as Asma, who is also being treated in the Dhaka chest hospital, say they have no choice but to continue sandblasting.

“The disease has eaten all my savings. If I don’t work, I can’t eat,” a gaunt and skinny Asma, 25, told AFP before discharging herself from hospital and going back to work.by Shafiq Alam

Copyright © 2011 AFP.

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Superdry

This is because the transition caused a temporary but significant reduction both in the amount of stock and range of sizes reaching its boutiques in the UK. Although the group’s international and wholesale operations were not affected, its UK store network represents a huge part of its sales. In fact, its first-quarter results ended on July 31 showed a turnover of 61 million euros, of which 38 million came from sales in the UK.

Supergroup anticipates that its distribution capability will have returned to normal levels of operation and have been fully upgraded with additional capability and efficiency in November 2011.

Copyright © 2011 FashionMag.com All rights reserved.

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By DANA MATTIOLI

Retailers have found an interesting characteristic of consumers who browse their websites using tablets: They’re much more likely to pull the trigger on purchases than other online shoppers.

Many retailers also report that tablet users place bigger orders—in some cases adding 10% to 20% more to the tab—on average than shoppers using PCs or smartphones. Retailers are trying to take advantage of that trend by tweaking their websites to better accommodate tablets and rolling out catalogs that have been developed for the device. “Everything helps,” says Peter Sachse, chief marketing officer at Macy’s Inc. and chairman of Macys.com.

For most retailers, e-commerce is the fastest growing part of their businesses, posting double-digit revenue gains each year even as in-store growth remains muted. Around 3% of the nearly $150 billion U.S. consumers spent online last year came via mobile devices, of which tablets are a rapidly growing component, according to market research firm comScore Inc.

Macy’s, teen retailer Abercrombie & Fitch Co. and Gap Inc. all say they are seeing the highest percentage of conversions from shoppers using tablets. The companies wouldn’t disclose figures.

Blake McCrossin, a public-relations associate in New York, says he thought shopping would be the last thing he would do on his iPad. The 30-year-old has since used the Apple device to order everything from clothes to a flat-screen television and has already finished most of his Christmas shopping using it. “The visuals and graphics are amazing, and I get caught up in impulse buying,” Mr. McCrossin says.

Shopping network QVC promotes tablet use on-air and through its social media channels. It is also using alternative technologies to Flash on its website to accommodate the iPad, which doesn’t support that software. “We see it as a key growth vehicle for QVC,” says Claire Watts, CEO of QVC U.S.

Mobile commerce accounts for about 3% of QVC’s revenue, which last year came to $7.8 billion. Tablets are the fastest growing part of mobile and deliver a higher conversion rate than mobile or PC users, according to Ms. Watts.

Macy’s, which owns its namesake department store as well as Bloomingdale’s, began making its sites compatible with devices that don’t support Flash this year. The department store owner is rethinking the “point and click” experience of its website, which like most others was designed on the premise that links would be clicked with an arrow controlled by a mouse rather than by a user’s finger, which is more blunt.

“Every website in the world was built for a mouse,” says Mr. Sachse. “We underline things to click. We are thinking about what that should look like in a touch environment.”

Many retailers are finding tablet users prefer to visit their main websites directly through a browser, just as they would from a PC, even though some companies have pumped lots of money into creating specialized sites that would work better with mobile phones’ small screens and long load times.

Cosmetics chain Sephora uses the same website for tablets as it does for PCs, says Bridget Dolan, Sephora’s vice president of interactive media. Sephora also has a free tablet app. QVC also says more tablet users visit directly through its website than via its apps.

Some retailers are revamping their catalogs in light of tablets, which allow them to add videos, slideshows, how-to demonstrations and ‘order’ buttons. Sephora dropped its summer catalog for the first time this year and shifted entirely over to tablets in an experiment to see what effect it would have on sales. The company will continue to produce print versions of its other seasonal catalogs.

Sephora has partnered with Google Inc. and online shopping site TheFind, both of which have tablet apps that aggregate catalogs from brands such as Nordstrom Inc., Crate & Barrel, Neiman Marcus and Urban Outfitters Inc. Users can swipe through their favorite catalogs and place orders through the free apps.

Siva Kumar, CEO of TheFind, says the conversion rate on its Catalogue app is about 10% higher than on its website, and average order size is between 10% and 20% higher.

Tablet users on average are spending three times as much time on the catalog app than on the website, he says.Sephora receives as much revenue from tablets as it does through mobile, even though people visit Sephora by smartphone much more often. Sephora’s tablet conversion rate and average order size is also higher than PC and mobile, says Ms. Dolan. “She who can afford a tablet tends to be a higher spender in general,” she says.

Write to Dana Mattioli at dana.mattioli@wsj.com

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© Thomson Reuters 2011 All rights reserved

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Copyright © 2011 FashionMag.com All rights reserved.

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JOHANNESBURG, Sept 25, 2011 (AFP) – A fashion line launched to raise money for Nelson Mandela’s AIDS charity made its runway debut Sunday, with high-fashion incarnations of the vivid shirts that he often wore as president.

 

Models wearing creations from the 46664 clothing line, a brand created to raise money for Nelson Mandela’s AIDS charity (AFP, Alexander Joe)

The clothing created for 46664, the anti-apartheid hero’s prison number which is now the name of his charity, appeared on the catwalk for South Africa Fashion Week, with everything from salmon-coloured suits for men to full-length flowing gowns for women.

“What is exciting about this range is that pretty much most people can find something in the range,” said Wayne Bebb, CEO of Brand ID, which manages the 46664 label.

“Someone who is quite fashionable would love some of the colours, someone who is little bit more conservative is going to find a very interesting shirt and a pair of denim,” he told AFP.

Many of the clothes used prints inspired by the loose shirts that Mandela himself wore after taking office in 1994 as South Africa’s first black president.

A few more muted pieces included slates and charcoals, but pink, green, orange and purple were the order of the day — whether in patchwork shorts for men or smartly tailored suits for women.

Between seven and nine percent of the revenue generated by the clothes will go to Mandela’s foundation, which is committed to battling the spread of HIV and AIDS.

The organisation once used mega-concerts with stars like Bono and Annie Lennox to raise money for its work, but 46664 head Ruth Rensburg said the charity now needed other ways of fundraising.

“46664 currently implements Nelson Mandela international day, it takes responsibility for the global coordination and implementation of it around the world,” she said. “What we will do going forward is look for projects that take forward Mr Mandela’s work.”

Mandela Day is observed on July 18, the Nobel Peace Prize winner’s birthday, when he asks the public to perform community service.

Mandela was given the number 46664 upon his arrival at South Africa’s Robben Island prison in 1964, where he remained until 1982.

He spent time in various prisons on the mainland until his release in 1990 and was elected president following South Africa’s first-ever free vote in 1994.

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Copyright © 2011 AFP.

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